brickbots · nevan69 · Jan 26, 2026 · Jan 29, 2026 · Jan 29, 2026 · Jan 31, 2026
diff --git a/case/v3/common/pi_mount.stl b/case/v3/common/pi_mount.stl
diff --git a/case/v3/common/pi_mount_noinserts.stl b/case/v3/common/pi_mount_noinserts.stl
diff --git a/docs/source/BOM.rst b/docs/source/BOM.rst
@@ -96,7 +96,7 @@ These are the bigger items/assemblies which you'll need to purchase to include i
      - Other lenses might work here, but something fast with a 10deg FOV is ideal
 
 You can use either the imx296 or imx462 module from innomaker.  They both 
-perform about the same so choose the least expesive/easiest to get model 
+perform about the same so choose the least expensive/easiest to get model 
 in your particular location.
 
 Case hardware
@@ -132,6 +132,6 @@ In addition to the 3d printed parts detailed in the :doc:`Build Guide<build_guid
 Power
 -----
 
-The PiFinder takes about .9amp at 5v under full load, and about 60% of this when in power-save/idle mode.  For battery sizing a good rule of thumb would be 1.25 hour of run time per 1000mah of battery capacity.  You can use any batter pack that will produce at least 1.5 amp of power and plug this into the USB-C port on the unit.
+The PiFinder takes about .9amp at 5v under full load, and about 60% of this when in power-save/idle mode.  For battery sizing a good rule of thumb would be 1.25 hour of run time per 1000mah of battery capacity.  You can use any battery pack that will produce at least 1.5 amp of power and plug this into the USB-C port on the unit.
 
-If you'd like to have a fully stand-alone unit with integrated rechargeable battery, there are instructing in the build guide for integrating a `PiSugar S plus <https://github.com/PiSugar/PiSugar/wiki/PiSugarS-Plus>`_.  This is the lower-cost version without RTC, but it has a 5000mah battery which should provide about 5 hours of run time.  
+If you'd like to have a fully stand-alone unit with integrated rechargeable battery, there are instructions in the build guide for integrating a `PiSugar S plus <https://github.com/PiSugar/PiSugar/wiki/PiSugarS-Plus>`_.  This is the lower-cost version without RTC, but it has a 5000mah battery which should provide about 5 hours of run time.  
diff --git a/docs/source/build_guide.rst b/docs/source/build_guide.rst
@@ -8,12 +8,11 @@ Introduction and Overview
 
 Welcome to the PiFinder build guide!  This guide is split into three main parts, one for building the :ref:`UI Board<build_guide:pifinder ui hat>` with Screen and Buttons, a section related to :ref:`3d printing<build_guide:printed parts>` and preparing the case parts, and one for :ref:`final assembly<build_guide:assembly>`.   Along with these sections, please consult the :doc:`Bill of Materials<BOM>` for a full list of parts required and reach out with any questions via `email <mailto:info@pifinder.io>`_ or `discord <https://discord.gg/Nk5fHcAtWD>`_
 
-If you've received a kit with an assembled UI Board + 3d Parts, you can jump right to the :ref:`final assembly<build_guide:assembly>`.  Otherwise, fire up that 3d printer and get the :ref:`parts printing<build_guide:printing>` while you work to assemble the UI Hat.
 
 PiFinder UI Hat
 ========================
 
-A key part of the PiFinder is a custom 'Hat' which matches the general form factor of the Raspberry Pi and connects to it's GPIO header.  It contains the switches, screen and Inertial Measurement Unit along with keypad backlight components
+A key part of the PiFinder is a custom 'Hat' which matches the general form factor of the Raspberry Pi and connects to its GPIO header.  It contains the switches, screen and Inertial Measurement Unit along with keypad backlight components
 
 It's all through-hole components, so should be approachable to even beginners... but the component build order is important as some items block access to others.
 
@@ -34,7 +33,7 @@ Polarity matters here, so mind the direction.  The longer lead of the LED should
 
 .. image:: ../../images/build_guide/led_build_03.jpeg
 
-Take you time and make sure each is positioned well.  They should be pretty uniform, but little inconsistencies don't matter too much.  I like to place them all in the board, and then tape them in place.
+Take your time and make sure each is positioned well.  They should be pretty uniform, but little inconsistencies don't matter too much.  I like to place them all in the board, and then tape them in place.
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/ui_module_2.jpeg
 
@@ -49,7 +48,7 @@ When satisfied, solder the remaining legs and clip the leads up to a single pair
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/ui_module_5.jpeg
 
-The two resistors and transitor are next.  R2 is the vertical oriented 330ohm part and R1 is the 22ohm oriented horizontally.  Direction does not matter with these, but it's important for the transistor. Check the photo below for orientation and make sure this is bent flat against the PCB and the resistors are low.  Solder them from the back and clip the leads once you've verified they look good.
+The two resistors and transistor are next.  R2 is the vertical oriented 330ohm part and R1 is the 22ohm oriented horizontally.  Direction does not matter with these, but it's important for the transistor. Check the photo below for orientation and make sure this is bent flat against the PCB and the resistors are low.  Solder them from the back and clip the leads once you've verified they look good.
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/ui_module_6a.jpeg
 
@@ -106,7 +105,7 @@ The GPS header is next. The modules come with a yellow header, but any will do.
 IMU
 ------------------------
 
-The Inertial Measurement unit is next.  The IMU has an annoyingly bright green LED on it, which you will either want to paint over with a few laywers of black nail polish, or you can use your soldering iron to destroy it.  It can be handled  after it's soldered if you forget, but it's much easier before hand.  See the image below to ID the offending component.
+The Inertial Measurement unit is next.  The IMU has an annoyingly bright green LED on it, which you will either want to paint over with a few layers of black nail polish, or you can use your soldering iron to destroy it.  It can be handled  after it's soldered if you forget, but it's much easier beforehand.  See the image below to ID the offending component.
 
 .. image:: ../../images/build_guide/adafruit_IMU.png
    :target: ../../images/build_guide/adafruit_IMU.png
@@ -150,7 +149,7 @@ To make the top plate fit a bit better and look tidier, I suggest sanding back o
 
 .. image:: ../../images/build_guide/IMG_4652.jpeg
    :target: ../../images/build_guide/IMG_4652.jpeg
-   :alt: Cut/Sand tabs on displya
+   :alt: Cut/Sand tabs on display
 
 
 It's not a bad idea to test fit the screen with the header installed and the top-plate in place.  Everything should fit nicely and be square. 
@@ -216,7 +215,7 @@ part can have force applied as the hat is installed and removed.
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/ui_module_17.jpeg
 
-After you have all the pins soldrerd, it's a good time to insert the SD card and power it up to double check everything is working
+After you have all the pins soldered, it's a good time to insert the SD card and power it up to double check everything is working
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/ui_module_18.jpeg
 
@@ -229,7 +228,7 @@ There you go!  The PiFinder hat is fully assembled and you can move on to printi
 Configurations Overview
 ========================
 
-There are three different ways to build a PiFinder allowing it to be convieniently used on a variety of telescopes.  
+There are three different ways to build a PiFinder allowing it to be conveniently used on a variety of telescopes.  
 
 
 .. list-table::
@@ -246,7 +245,7 @@ There are three different ways to build a PiFinder allowing it to be convienient
 
           Flat
 
-Any configuration can technically work with any scope, but since the camera always needs to face the sky the different configurations allow the screen and keyboard to be placed for easy access.  The Left and Right configruations are primarily for newtonian style scopes, like dobsonians, which have the focuser perpendicular to the light path.
+Any configuration can technically work with any scope, but since the camera always needs to face the sky the different configurations allow the screen and keyboard to be placed for easy access.  The Left and Right configurations are primarily for newtonian style scopes, like dobsonians, which have the focuser perpendicular to the light path.
 
 The Flat configuration places the keypad and screen in easy reach for refractors, SCT's and other rear-focuser scopes.  When the scope is pointed upward, the screen is tilted towards you for quick access.
 
@@ -338,7 +337,7 @@ Back
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
 The back piece holds the camera for left/right builds and reinforces the PiMount and Bottom piece to 
-help keep everything squar and sturdy.  It needs six inserts; four to mount the camera and two in the bottom
+help keep everything square and sturdy.  It needs six inserts; four to mount the camera and two in the bottom
 edge to connect with the bottom piece
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/parts_7.jpeg
@@ -350,7 +349,7 @@ Dovetail Bottom
 The dovetail bottom has two inserts to receive the longer 12mm screws which allow angle adjustment.  These inserts
 are placed in the side opposite where the top piece connects.  The screws pass through the top piece and part of the 
 bottom before engaging with the inserts.  This makes this assembly strong enough to hold the set angle with the screws 
-sufficiently tightend.
+sufficiently tightened.
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/parts_8.jpeg
    :target: images/build_guide/parts_8.jpeg
@@ -493,7 +492,7 @@ Assembly Overview
 
 From here on out you'll need the M2.5 screws, stand-offs, and thumbscrews along with the 3d printed parts, UI hat and other bits like the camera, lens and GPS unit.  Most of the photos in this part of the guide show a build with the PiSugar, but if you are powering the PiFinder in some other way, the assembly is almost identical.
 
-*In all cases, don't over tighten the hardware!*  There is no need and you could end up damaging the 3d printed pieces, inserts or screws.  Once they feel snug, that's probably enough force.  The case forms a ridged assembly once everything is in place and will easily support the camera and other bits.
+*In all cases, don't over tighten the hardware!*  There is no need and you could end up damaging the 3d printed pieces, inserts or screws.  Once they feel snug, that's probably enough force.  The case forms a rigid assembly once everything is in place and will easily support the camera and other bits.
 
 Pi Mounting
 ---------------------------
@@ -528,14 +527,14 @@ Snip the zip-ties off and you are ready to move on.
 Camera Prep
 ---------------------------
 
-The new v3 camera may come with one of two different lens holders aready installed. No matter 
+The new v3 camera may come with one of two different lens holders already installed. No matter 
 which your camera has you'll be removing and replacing it.
 
 .. image:: images/v25_upgrade/v25_upgrade_11.jpeg
 
 Some cameras have pin headers installed, if you have one of these, you'll need to clip them as close
 as reasonable to the board. It can help here to remove the black plastic portion by pulling it with
-a pair of pliers.  Alternatively, you can just cut through it to get as close to the PCB as possilble.
+a pair of pliers.  Alternatively, you can just cut through it to get as close to the PCB as possible.
 Take care not to clip any of the surrounding components.
 
 .. image:: images/v25_upgrade/v25_upgrade_12.jpeg
@@ -558,8 +557,8 @@ there are holes there to help get started.  Tighten the screws down against the
 .. image:: images/v25_upgrade/v25_upgrade_15.jpeg
 
 Flip the camera assembly over and thread in the lens.  Be slow and careful here.  With gentle force
-the lens should slide in a few MM to get everything align and stop.  When it stops, check to make sure it seems 
-straight and start screwing it into place.  To get focus about right, You'll want a 6mm gap (picured below) between the 
+the lens should slide in a few MM to get everything aligned and stop.  When it stops, check to make sure it seems
+straight and start screwing it into place.  To get focus about right, You'll want a 6mm gap (pictured below) between the 
 top of the lens holder and the bottom of the lip on the lens.  Don't fret too much about it as you'll do final focus 
 under the stars.
 
@@ -590,7 +589,7 @@ Return to the Raspberry Pi assembly and thread the camera cable through as shown
 .. important::
     If you are using the recommended S Plus unit, now is the time to make sure you've got it all prepared.
 
-    * Turn the 'Auto Startup' switch on the bottom of the unit to OFF. Having this in the ON position will prevent i2c from working and the IMU will not be used. See the image below:  The switch is outlined in orange, and the photos shows the correct OFF position.
+    * Turn the 'Auto Startup' switch on the bottom of the unit to OFF. Having this in the ON position will prevent i2c from working and the IMU will not be used. See the image below:  The switch is outlined in orange, and the photo shows the correct OFF position.
 
     * The blue power light on the PiSugar board is very bright.  You'll definitely want to cover it with some black nail polish or use a soldering iron to destroy it.  Plug it in to the battery and turn it on to make sure it's subdued.  Check the image below for the position of this LED.  It's already blacked out with nail polish in the photo, but the orange arrow indicates which one you'll want to cover.
 
@@ -628,7 +627,7 @@ The combined PiSugar/RPI stack then gets secured to the PI Mount using the 20mm
 
      - .. figure:: images/build_guide/right_3.jpeg
 
-          Secured wiith stand offs
+          Secured with stand offs
 
 
 
@@ -697,7 +696,7 @@ Now it's time to mount the camera module.  You'll need the module, camera tray a
 
 .. note::
    The images here show an older back piece and camera tray. New kits have a back piece 
-   with two holes which match the camera holder.  In this simpler arrangment the camera
+   with two holes which match the camera holder.  In this simpler arrangement the camera
    tray is not directly secured to the back piece, but rather has two holes through it.
    The camera holder is secured with longer screws through the tray into the two holes
    in the back piece
@@ -707,7 +706,7 @@ by sliding the dark-grey piece away from the PCB.  Be gentle as this part can br
 much force. 
 
 Once the connector is open, slide the cable into the connector using gentle force and making 
-sure it's well aligned.  Take you time and watch the
+sure it's well aligned.  Take your time and watch the
 dark-grey clip.  It should not close as you are inserting the cable, and if it does, you'll need
 to re-open it to get the cable to slide in all the way.
 
@@ -769,7 +768,7 @@ manage the camera and GPS cables.  The photos below show the left and right conf
      - .. image:: images/build_guide/right_20.jpeg
 
 
-The screw holes on the UI Board should line up with three of the four stand-offs.  The fourth provides support, but does is not used to secure the outer case. Collect up the Shroud, Bezel and cover plate along with three of the 12mm screws for the next steps
+The screw holes on the UI Board should line up with three of the four stand-offs.  The fourth provides support, but is not used to secure the outer case. Collect up the Shroud, Bezel and cover plate along with three of the 12mm screws for the next steps
 
 .. image:: images/build_guide/common_5.jpeg
    :target: images/build_guide/common_5.jpeg
@@ -910,7 +909,7 @@ Next you'll position the camera module and use the longer M2.5 screw to secure i
    :alt: Assembly Steps
 
 
-Gently plug in the UI Module, working to tuck the cable underneath it.  Take you time and make sure the camera cable is not pinched between the stand-offs and the UI Module.
+Gently plug in the UI Module, working to tuck the cable underneath it.  Take your time and make sure the camera cable is not pinched between the stand-offs and the UI Module.
 
 
 .. image:: ../../images/build_guide/v1.6/flat/flat_build_guide_10.jpeg

diff --git a/docs/source/catalogs.rst b/docs/source/catalogs.rst
@@ -76,4 +76,4 @@ The Abell Catalog of Planetary Nebulae (1966 by George O. Abell) contains 79 ent
 Arp
 ----
 Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies    (Arp 1966)
-Select galaxies with interest morhphology.  See `Wikipedia - Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlas_of_Peculiar_Galaxies>`_
+Select galaxies with interest morphology.  See `Wikipedia - Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlas_of_Peculiar_Galaxies>`_
diff --git a/docs/source/dev_arch.rst b/docs/source/dev_arch.rst
@@ -48,7 +48,7 @@ there are some time-critical requirements:
    information, that would be cumbersome to change using the keyboard. 
    This means that in parallel http requests MUST be parsed and serviced.
 5. `SkySafari <https://skysafariastronomy.com/>`_ can connect to PiFinder and 
-   be used as planetarium software to a) see there PiFinder is pointing and 
+   be used as planetarium software to a) see where PiFinder is pointing and 
    b) to push targets to PiFinder. This means that PiFinder MUST support the 
    LX200 protocol as supported by SkySafari. 
 
@@ -197,8 +197,8 @@ Here some details:
    commands on exposure time through `camera_command_queue`
  - The solver processes the image and notifies the integrator of new solves 
    through the `solver_queue`
- - The `aligment_command_queue` is used to ask the solver, which pixel corresponds 
-   to a given position and the result is handed back using the `aligment_response_queue`
+ - The `alignment_command_queue` is used to ask the solver, which pixel corresponds 
+   to a given position and the result is handed back using the `alignment_response_queue`
  - Through the `ui_queue` a new target is set by the SkySafari server
  - Commands and telescope location (GPS) are injected by the `webserver` into the respective queues.
 
@@ -234,7 +234,7 @@ There are three types of shared state in PiFinder
 
 - The shared image - 
   This uses a **shared memory image, that is constantly updated by the 
-  image acquision thread**. Whenever working on this image, make sure that 
+  image acquisition thread**. Whenever working on this image, make sure that 
   you create your own local copy of it, so it does not get changed while you process it. 
 
 - An UIState object - see ``ui/status.py``